The Camino de Santiago in France. VI. From Cahors to St Jean-Pied-de-Port (Via Podiensis) on GR65 track

It is still a place of pilgrimage in September today. In the 11th century, the Bishop of Gascony had a church erected. It was a famous place of pilgrimage for 500 years until the time of the Reformation, when the site was vandalized. Nothing remains of the early church.

The road slopes down again. The slopes are never excessive, rarely at 15%. At the bottom of the descent, the route Geü brook again, hidden under the weeds.

Beyond the brook, the asphalt road climbs gently up through the oaks towards Lacoume hamlet.

In Lacoume, where corn is found in abundance, the GR65 finds a dirt and grass lane that weaves its way between corn and undergrowth.

You have often been told that the Camino de Santiago cannot ignore the presence of a stream, however modest it may be. it’s always the same song. You have to slope down to climb back up again. So, according to the pre-established scenario, but here there is no steep descent, the GR65 will descend slightly into the undergrowth until it crosses the small Soularau brook.

Beyond the stream, it’s a road that slopes up through the corn.

Further afield, near Larqué hamlet, a road lightly climbs to reach a small crossroads where Sauvelade is announced with a lot of publicity. Pilgrims are often comforted by these advertising inserts. This always proves that they are on the right track and that their sometimes-dry throats or heavy legs will soon regain a taste for existence. Yet, it is still half an hour to reach Sauvelade Abbey and 4 hours to Navarrenx. A trifle, right! And immediately, the road begins to climb.

Because courage, it will take to face the next quarter of an hour, especially since in front of you a severe climb looms. You can see the road zigzagging across the meadow up there on the hill. You will enjoy the climb ahead. The average slope is 10%. Reasonable, right? But some sections go up to 20% for less than a kilometer.

In the meadows, the beautiful White Aquitaine cows bask under oaks, chestnuts and ash trees. This is the bewitching charm of Béarn area.

When you’ll see the little wooden cabin by the side of the road, know that deliverance is near! Here, there is a bus stop, and the bus does not run every hour. But there is a bus, which is remarkable for France.

Finally, deliverance may not be the right word. Because the descent to Sauvelade is even steeper, sometimes up to 25% decline. But, this is descent! For sore knees, it is often even more painful.

At the bottom of the dale, the slope eases into the gentle countryside.

The road then arrives at a strategic crossroads. Either you slope down the stony lane towards the Roman bridge, or you follow the road towards the abbey. Bed and breakfast advertisers invite you to follow their point of view. Choose. If you prefer the Roman bridge, you won’t see the abbey church. It will be said all the same that it would be a shame to miss the site of the abbey, even if it has lost the grandeur of its past. For the Roman bridge, you can also see it by making a very small detour at the exit of Sauvelade.

If you follow the road, it continues to descend towards Sauvelade along the undergrowth and corn.

At the bottom of the dale flows the Laâ brook, just before the abbey.

Austere walls overlook the road where th GR65 runs. Sauvelade is a welcome and popular stopover for pilgrims, even if not much of the old atmosphere remains. You can eat and stay here, but also in the outskirts. Miam Miam Dodo makes the directory of the lodgings a little far from the track.

Beyond Sauvelade GR path flattens on the D10 small departmental road.

It will do so until leaving the departmental road in a place known as Beigbeder.

A road will climb in levels, steeply but rarely excessive, for miles. At the start, it passes through the undergrowth dominated by oaks, crossing Salières brook.

Further afield, the road leaves the undergrowth for the meadows. No sign of civilization on the road before reaching a few houses in Plaâ and Chardiesse.

Cattle are ubiquitous in the meadows. They are above all White Aquitaine cows as everywhere in the department, surveying the green meadows or the Pyrenean slopes.

Further up, the road then heads to the hamlet of Chardiesse. There is no organized village here, only isolated farms along the road.

In Chardiesse, the climb is not over. Sometimes you will have the feeling that you will never reach the top of the hill. It is from here that the slope is most demanding, sometimes even up to 20%, in the clumps of holm oaks.

At the top of the hill, the road joins a small plateau near a secluded farmhouse nestled in the trees.

You reached a place called Le Hameau de Bugnein and Navarrenx is at 2h30 from here.

The road then wanders under the oaks and ash trees on the top of the hill, in the direction of Berduque.

Berduque is a bit like the quintessence of Béarn area, with its herds scattered in beautiful nature. They are White or Blond Aquitaine cows, which is the same definition.

The serenity of the farmers reigns in these places. A welcome stop is available for pilgrims. The people here know that the climb has been demanding and that it is not yet the end of the stage.

Beyond Berduque, the road descends towards Bugnein/Mathieu in the smiling countryside.

The descent is severe, often around 20% gradient. When you glance at the horizon, you salivate in advance, because you already imagine that you will have to climb up the side of the hill in front of you.

At the bottom of the descent nestles a magnificent house which serves as accommodation and which sings by the water’s edge under the large willow tree.

Unsurprisingly, as expected, the road slopes up the other side of the hill.

The slope is almost 15% between meadows and undergrowth, along the farms.

We have said it often, it is in these places, when the journey is more tough, that you’ll see pilgrims stranded on the way.

The climb up the dale is demanding up to Lanéga hamlet.

Beyond the place called Bernata, it is the holidays. You’ll leave behind the climbs, the descents to flatten relax. Alas still on the tar.

The languid cows in the meadows are probably wondering why all these strange animals are agitated with a bag on their back.

Shortly after, the GR65 reaches a crossroads near Boussaque hamlet.

There is not much to immerse your soul in contemplation. You just have to move on, sometimes have a look at a farm by the side of the road or a little further. The routine of pilgrims, in a way, without mystery. 

The bad asphalt road gradually approaches the forest of Navarrenx, in the middle of oaks and chestnuts.

Further on, the road then enters the beautiful forest of Méritein, under large oaks with gnarled arms, like an ocean of peaks caressed by the wind.

The small bad road, rather a wide dirt road, then slopes down between 10% and 15% gradient into the forest.

Further afield, you’ll sometimes find a little corn, but so little.

Further on, GR path finds the real tar again. Here the country opens up and the little Lucq stream winds its way through the plain.

Further ahead, you will end up abandoning the stream to its fate, to arrive at Méritein, a small village with no particular character, with its St Jean Baptiste church built in the 19th century.

The journey from Méritein to Navarrenx will not go down in history. It is almost two kilometers along villas without much character, the lot of small towns and villages today. When it’s small, the advantage is that you avoid industrial and commercial areas.

There won’t be much suspense in telling you that you will find the corn fields back.

Entering Navarrenx on this side does not really announce a listed village.

In the suburb, the road will then cross Arroder, a small stream that flows into the Gave d’Oléron.

Navarrenx is a bastide, and like all bastides, there is a central street where shops are gathered, and many alleys, much quieter, which start at a right angle to the main street.

The layout of the houses and the uniformity of the roofs are remarkable.

Navarrenx (1,000 inhabitants) is one of the most beautiful villages in France. And with good reason. The bastion, surrounded by fortresses, was erected from 1538 on the order of Henry II, King of Navarre. Most of the fortifications have been preserved from the outset. Surrounded by walls from the XIVth century, the city retains beautiful remains such as the Saint-Antoine gate, rebuilt in 1645, the Powder Tower, the Place des Casernes, the military fountain, as well as Gothic houses and, on the square from the town hall, a XVIIth century arsenal built on the ruins of the house of the kings of Navarre.

From the top of the fortifications, the view is lovely over the Gave d’Oléron and the stone bridge which dates back to the XIIIth century. It is said that pilgrims before this time crossed the river on boats.

Along the ramparts stands the square Poudrière tower. Two beautiful squares, Place l’Arsenal and Place des Casernes occupy the center of the small town. It was at the 17th century that the Arsenal was rebuilt on the ruins of the houses of the King of Navarre, where food and ammunition were kept. The whole complex today serves as a place of exhibition and lodging for pilgrims. It’s beautiful, timeless.